Where ever I may roam

The week spent in Halifax consisted of a lot of walking, exploring, discovering and relaxing. I even managed to fit in some work and spent some time on some of my projects.

The Halifax Citadel was the first point of call. I spent 2 hours wandering the various rooms and looking at the exhibits on display. The army museum was quite interesting, covering WW1, WW2, Vietnam and recently Afghanistan. One of the things that I found interesting was that one of the founders of CIBC was a pirate before he started the bank.

The dock and waterfront was quite touristy, with various little shops set up for food and souvenirs. The Bluenose II was docked in Halifax for a few days while I was there and I took a cruise on it around the harbor. It was a little difficult to get a ticket as most of them had been pre-sold to tour companies. I got down to the dock early and put my name down on the waiting list if there were any no-shows. After going through the safety orientation and hearing a bit about the ship, everyone boarded, and then they started to go through the waiting list. It was worth the wait tho as I got on and it was an excellent trip. The sun was shining and there was a bit of a breeze blowing as we spent about an hour sailing around the bay. Most of the crew had signed on for a season from April to October, sailing up and down the eastern Nova Scotian coast line, calling into ports and running cruises. Sounds like a great way to spend 6 months to me.

Halifax from the Bulenose II

Here’s a video of the cruise around Halifax harbour.

I did a day trip out to Peggy’s Cove and I wasn’t too impressed. That was probably something to do with the heaps of people there. On the way back I turned off the highway and rode into a little coastal town called Lower Prospect. I followed the road until it terminated at a dock, where I sat looking out at the ocean for half an hour. It was peaceful and there were very few people around.

Obligatory Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse photo

Lower Prospect Harbour

Peggy’s Cove Harbour

Some of the other things I got up to was wandering around down town, as well as out into the suburbs. I took a ferry over to Darthmouth and walked the coastal trail there. Due to mis-reading the timetable I got to then other end and discovered that the ferry at that terminal doesn’t run on a Sunday. Then I started to worry about when the last ferry back was as it was 3:50pm. After a quick walk back to the main ferry terminal I caught a ferry back to Halifax. I needn’t have worried tho as the ferries run until 11:30pm.

I caught up with Mike for a beer, who used to be a Wings regular until he moved to Halifax. I also wandered around Point Pleasant Park, wandering the trails and looking at the ruins of fortifications that served as part of the Halifax Defense Network.

I think I got a reasonable balance of of exploring and relaxing during my time here. While I was initially quite happy to stay still for a couple of days, I’m now really looking forward to getting back on the road again. I think a week is a bit too long and I’m finding it a little difficult constantly being surrounded by people. It didn’t help that the kitchen was always dirty, as a few people didn’t clean up after themselves. The hostel has been good for interaction, I’ve had some great conversations with some fellow travelers. The majority of people here seem to be either Australian or German.

I’m really looking forward to being by my self and on the road again tomorrow.

The ride on Tuesday from the Nova Scotia border to Black Rock was quite pleasant. I took it a bit slower, stopping to write for a while in a Tim Hortons and cook lunch at a park in Truro. It’s the first time I’ve cooked something for lunch since being on the road. I spent Tuesday night at Raven’s place, a friend of Selena’s. His house is awesome. It’s a coordwood style structure that he built himself, nestled amongst the trees right near the ocean. The house itself stays quite cool in summer and warm in winter due to the style of construction. The local beach and boat ramp were stunning, the tide was out and we went for a walk along the rocks. There were also some waterfalls close by that were part of a stream that ran through Raven’s property.

Black Rock Beach

His house looked and felt wonderful and it was great talking to him about how it was built and his plans for expansion. It inspired me to think about how I’d go about building a place, what I’d want in it, and how I’d lay it out.

The next day I headed to Annapolis Royal and explored Fort Anne, which took several hours. The town is over 300 years old and the fort was originally built by the French. There were a heap of galleries, historic sites and cafe’s in the town that I checked out. I found a leatherwork and book store which I quite liked and I got myself a new wallet, as the one I had was falling apart. I ended up having a rather tasty club baguette for lunch in Annapolis Royal, while looking out over the water at what was left of the Queen Pier.

I called into Kejimkujik National Park, walking some of the short trails and visiting the waterfalls. I was somewhat tempted to stay the night there and do some more hiking, but I’m glad I continued on.

On Raven’s suggestion I was heading down towards Liverpool instead of Lunenburg, mainly in order to check out the sand beaches at Mouton Cove. They were quite different to the other beaches that I’ve seen in the area as those are rocky. The sand beaches reminded me of the ones in Australia and I liked the visuals of the stones suddenly becoming sand before the water.

Sandy Beach

After departing the RV park in the morning I passed through Liverpool and headed up the coast to Lunenburg, where I spent several hours wandering. It started with a tasting, followed by a tour and then more tastings at the Ironworks Distillery.

Still Sexy

The aging room. Some of these are Jim Beam barrels.

I then went and explored the shops and galleries about town. While the town itself it quite touristy, it’s still got a great vibe. Although that could have been the aftermath of all the spirit tastings I did.

Lunenburg Harbour

I continued onwards, towards Halifax, where I’ll be spending the next week. I stopped to see Blue Rocks and was much more interested in some of the little bays. I stretched my legs at Queensland beach and took the opportunity to eat an orange.

A small bay near Lunenburg

Summing up yesterday in a phrase, it would be ‘A series of bad decisions.’ I left Saint John easily enough and headed towards Saint Martin to go on the Fundy Trail Parkway. There were plenty of lookout points and small trails to walk on, some leading down to the ocean, others providing fantastic views of the cliff faces.

Rock Beach – Fundy Trail Parkway

Fundy parkway

I quite enjoyed strolling through the woods, taking photos and video, however it was hot and I was wearing all my gear, including the jacket. As I progressed along the trail the winds increased, as did the gradient of the roads. I was getting less interested in stopping as I was being blown all over the road and I was hungry, which never improves my mood. Heading out of the parkway I took a wrong turn because I didn’t check the maps and ended up in the sticks. Thankfully it wasn’t that far out of the way. After getting back on course I had lunch at ‘The Castle Restaurant’ in Saint Martin. The fish and chips were fantastic, some of the best I’ve had in years.

Having improved my mood through food intake and fueled up the bike, I thought I’d follow a road on my maps as it looked like a shortcut to the next highway I needed. The road turned into a dirt road, which then turned into a single track running through the trees alongside a stream. The problems started to appear when it turned into a snowmobile trail and then an ATV trail. I got through the first washout o.k. but it was the second one where I became stuck and dropped the bike. After getting the bike upright, out of the washout and turned around I eventually got back to where I started and I took the now extra long way around. I improved my handling of the bike and was quite happy with how far I got it. It would have been easier if it wasn’t fully loaded.

Finally I got to Fundy National Park and saw the campgrounds in the park tI was really tempted to stay there but I was looking for some place I could camp for free. There were heaps of hiking trails and sights in Fundy Park and in hindsight I should have stayed. It would have made the day much nicer. I can re-visit Fundy Park on the way back through New Brunswick as it’s not that far from where I’ll be. It remains to be seen if I do or not.

Instead of camping at Fundy National Park, I continued on to Hopewell Rocks. The ‘park’ was closed, yet visitor access was still permitted, so I wandered along the pathways and saw the rocks from the viewing platforms. The tide was coming in so walking on the beach was a bad idea.

Hopewell Rocks

It was about this time I should have eaten some more food as the handful of so of almonds I had at Fundy Park weren’t cutting it any more. Instead I kept on riding, looking for a place to free camp. It was about this time that I came to the conclusion that I’m not going to free camp unless I have to; i.e. bad weather or an emergency. I also spent a hour going around in circles as I wasn’t looking at my maps. Not good when the sun was going down and I had no idea where a campsite was.

Passing through Sackville I asked someone out walking his dog where the nearest campsite was and found out that it’s in Nova Scotia, 2nd exit. Crossing into Nova Scotia on the Trans Canada was horrible. The wind was being funneled up the bay of Fundy and across the road. I was being blown across both lanes and had to ride at 60km/h to stay in the lane. As it was around 10pm by this time, the traffic was minimal, so that made the crossing somewhat easier. It’s not an experience I want to repeat any time soon.

I saw the signs for the campsite and followed them, only to discover after half an hour of checking maps and exploring all the roads that there wasn’t a campsite. I spied an old man out walking his dog (at 10:45pm!) and found out where there was one. It was a bit further down the highway. I managed to find that one and get checked in. It was a good nights sleep.

Going forward, I’ll be taking it easier. Yesterday was a lot of riding. I’ll also be seeing how a choice feels before plowing ahead with a plan of action. Something I didn’t realize when I was planning this trip was how much energy it takes, especially being buffeted by the wind all the time and being pushed across lanes. It makes riding a lot harder and way more stressful. It’s not something that you tend to experience in a car any where near as much or as often.

I don’t think I’ll be free camping mainly because I don’t feel safe.A car adds a lot of security that a tent just does not have. A car is also a lot quicker to get set up for sleeping and then set back up for driving. At the moment it takes me about 45 minutes to pack up, if I don’t eat. I may change in the future and just start camping but for now campgrounds and hostels are fine. They allow me to stop a lot earlier and leave a lot later, giving me more time to relax.

The two major things learned yesterday:

• Eat More.
• Check The Maps.

I’ve been making my way to the Maritimes over the last few days, having entered New Brunswick 3 days ago. The trip through the rest of Quebec involved a lot of highway and, on occasion, some dirt roads. The dirt road was 42km from Saint Omer to Lac de l’Est and then out to the highway again. A short, scenic hike through the woods took me to the lake side.

Bridge in Woods

Lac de l’Est

After spending the night at an RV park, I was a lot more relaxed when I hit the road the next day. My senses were feeding me a lot more information: The smell of the trees, or fresh cut wood as I passed a mill, the vibration of the bike through the foot pegs and handle bars, the sound of the wind roaring through the helmet, the sight of an eagle circling over head. I was also paying attention to how the landscape changes as the trip progresses. It’s for those experiences that I do long road trips, there’s nothing like the feeling of an open, empty road as it winds through farms, fields and towns.

The route took me through Grand Falls, on the way to Fredericton, where I stopped for a bit and had a look at the markets and museum, as well as having a look at the falls.

Grand Falls

I passed by the worlds longest covered bridge, in Hartland, at took to opportunity to ride up and down it. It was a similar experience to riding through a tunnel, except made of wood.

Hartland Bridge

I got to Fredericton around 5pm and got a place in Student Residence at the University of New Brunswick. It was a change from the hostels and the tent as I had a large room, with a queen bed, and my own bathroom. While the place did have a large commercial kitchen, there were no pots, pans or plates. I ended up using my small camping cookware on a giant 6 burner stove. Getting in a 5pm allowed me to explore the town a bit. It had a good vibe, there were pubs and restaurants with people in them, things seemed to be happening around town.

Bridge Footings

Earlier that day I had been singing a bunch of ACDC songs while riding, incuding Thunderstruck, T.N.T. and Dirty Deeds. The acoustics in a helmet are fantastic. Later that evening I went to Smoke’s Poutinery to get some dinner and as I walked in, Dirty Deeds was playing. That made me grin.

The ride to Saint John was fairly short and I took the opportunity to stop often. I got in to town around 3, which gave me heaps of time to explore. I ended up wandering the streets, admiring the old red brick and stone buildings, as well as checking out the museum.

Brick and Stone buildings

Saint John High School

After the exploring I went and had a lobster dinner. When in the Maritimes…

Lobster Dinner

The ‘hostel’ I’m staying in is a bit different. It’s basically an old town house with a bunch of beds crammed into the rooms. There are a few other people here, which was nice for a chat. It serves as accommodation, but it’s totally different from the expectations of a hostel. I was initially thinking of spending two nights in Saint John, but I’m glad it’s only one.

Today I’ll be taking the Fundy Trail Parkway up the Bay of Fundy towards Hopewell Rocks. From there it will be into Nova Scotia, heading towards Annapolis Royal. I’m planning on spending a week in Halifax, doing day trips to Peggy’s Cove and other places, as well as relaxing. I may even work on a project or two.

I was up and on the road by 9am this morning and I covered 432km of roads ranging from 4 lane freeways (urrgh) to single lane dirt roads (yay).

On a dirt road

The goal for today was to visit Rue Canusa. It’s a road that runs along the border between Canada and the USA. The strange part about it is that the houses on the north side of the road are in Canada and the houses on the south side are in the USA. I eventually got there, as where I thought it was turned out to be a dirt road and not the road I was looking for. Thankfully Rue Canusa wasn’t too far away so I went and road down it.

View down Rue Canusa

After Rue Canusa I basically headed North East. I wasn’t intending to cover as much ground as I did today, but the weather was fine and it was easy to keep riding. I passed through a heap of small towns and some larger ones too, eventually ending up at Lac Magnetic. I was looking for camping around there but couldn’t find any, so I continued onwards. I was following some dirt roads along a river to see if I could find a place to set up the tent, however I couldn’t get access to the river. As the road got back to the highway a bunch of RVs came into view and then entrance to a caravan park appeared. 15 minutes later I had the tent set up for the night. Currently, I’ve got no idea where I am.

I stopped quite often today while I was riding, to take photos, go for walks, have a nap, or just stretch. Tomorrow I want to do more things, if there are things to do.

The adventure started easily enough. I dropped the bike off at Air Canada Cargo in Vancouver on Sunday. The bike was weighed, which came in at 340kg with me on it and was shipped at 250kg. After paying and sorting out the paperwork, which included a bit of furious emailing as the dangerous goods documents I printed needed the color border, the bike was security inspected. The inspection took a while as everything was unpacked and looked at. I haven’t seen someone move so slowly before, however it was re-packed fairly well.

My flight was unremarkable. I got to the gate just as they started boarding, so there wasn’t much time spent waiting. I’d picked a exit row seat by the window when I booked the flight, which was a bonus as I’d forgotten about it. Shortly after take off I fell asleep and woke up just before landing.

Collecting the bike from Cargo in Montreal was fairly straight forward. After getting the address I took a taxi out there as it was on the other side of the airport and the roads that went between the two terminals are commonly referred to as landing strips. I got to the hostel easily enough and found parking for the bike in a secure parkade for $12.50 a day.

The bike, as received in Montreal

Most of Tuesday was spent wandering around Montreal, before and after checking into the hostel. I discovered that there was the Frankofolies music festival on, which I went back to that evening to listen to some music.

Way before the music started

I spent 3 hours on Wednesday wandering around the Montreal Museum of Fine Art. Visiting the museum was the point of spending a full day in Montreal as I didn’t get a chance to take a look last time I was here. There was heaps to see throughout the various floors of the 4 pavilions. I found the Pompeii exhibit very interesting, not only for all the information they had on life there at the time, but how well the artifacts were preserved. After the museum I walked down to the river and along to the Old Port and Old Montreal, looking at the shops, restaurants and buildings down there.

A building in old Montreal

I’ve really enjoyed the time I spend in Montreal.

The adventure started easily enough, I left Aki and Reiko’s place around 10:45am and headed towards the border, via Oak St. as I came down the bottom of Boundary Road, I had a fleeting thought that I should drop into my old work place and say bye. The trip towards the border brought back memories of when I uesd to go down to Seattle once a month or so. Things were a lot different this time. Getting across the border was easy enough and once across I filled the bike up. If my calculations are correct, I should get to Vancouver Airport on Sunday with 320km on the clock. The bike needs to be delivered with a 1/4 tank of fuel at the most and 320km will be about the time when the bike needs to be switched to the reserve fuel. Paying $3.39/gal ($0.89/l) for premium fuel was nice, yet annoying at the same time. I only put 7.4l of fuel into the bike, so I couldn’t really take advantage of the cheap price. The price I’ll be paying for most of the trip will be around the $1.50/l mark.

I had a few issues with trying to find a grocery store so that I could get some food. I ended up asking someone who came out of a asian grocery store where the nearest Safeway or Whole Foods may be. They gave me directions and as they were heading in that direction I just followed them. That was a good thing because the way we went had nothing to do with their directions. I got some fruit, avacado and almond butter (think peanut butter) for breakfasts, canned chilli and fresh vegetables for dinners. Both of these selections worked out to be quite tasty. For the next round of dinners I’m thinking of subsituting the canned chilli for canned beans (baked or otherwise), taco seasoning and other vegetables. It’s essentially flavoured soup, but it fulfills the trifecta of tasty, cheap and healthy.

I found the campsite at Larabee State Park easily enough, after a fantastic ride along Chuckanut Drive. The road twists and turns , is lined with trees on both sides, passed through various rock cutaways, and provides the occasional glimpse of the ocean. I had a big grin as I wound my way along the drive. Upon entering into the parking section for the walk in campsites, I misplaced my footing and the bike began to lean towards the left. I tried to fight it but I wasn’t winning. In the end I bailed from the bike and both it and I hit the ground.

After unoading the bike and dragging it around a bit, it was upright again and I assessed the damage. I was un-injured and the bike had a few scrapes on the crash bars and paniers. Hooray for gear working as it should. I’ve since re-packed the paniers so that the load it more even. When I was camping on the Island, the right panier was the heavy one and the bike barely stayed on the stand. I guess I over compensated. After getting the tent setup I figured that I’d hit up the beach for a swim as I was hot and sweaty. Unfortuantly, as I approaced the beach I saw signs advising against swimming there due to health reasons. Boo. Instead I sat on the rocks and watched the water for a while. I ended up relaxing, being a lot cooler, and I got some sun on my very pale legs too.It ended up being quite an early night.

The whole plan for spending two nights at Larabee was to spend an whole day hiking in Chuckanut, which I certainly accomplished today. I ended up hiking 20km of terrain over the course of 6 hours and visiting Fragrance Lake and Lost Lake. I found that the trail around Fragrance Lake provided great views of the water at key locations but it mainly meandered through the trees, providing a quiet and shady environment.

I encountered a few people while I was walking around the lake, including someone swimming. The Rock Trail, on the way to Lost Lake, passed by some enourmous rocks and rock falls. Most of the rocks on the ground were moss covered and there was the occasional cae due to how the rocks landed. There was a lot of up and down in this section, including several sets of stairs, but the hike was definitly worth it.

Lost Lake, on the other hand, I found disapointing. The lake itself was a long way below the trail and there was no way down. There was only the occasional glimpse of water through the trees so it was hard to get an idea of what it looked like.

Larabee State Park has been interesting. While I enjoyed the hiking, the campsite is loud. Traffic on Chuckanut Drive is easliy heard and theres a freight train route that cuts through the park quite close to the campsite, which blow their horns all times of day and night. I’m glad I stayed here and did the hiking, but I don’t think I’ll ever come back.

Tomorrow I plan on being up early and out of here. There’s a 10:30 am ferry to Orca’s Island with my name on it and I need to re-supply before hand.